Artificial grass installation in Provo depends on three things that happen before a single blade goes down: the infill that props up the turf and lets water through, the base beneath it, and the drainage that keeps water from pooling under the surface. This guide walks you through each one, explaining what materials work, why they matter in Utah Valley's climate, and what questions to ask an installer so you know exactly what you are getting. Whether you are converting a lawn that browns out in July heat, creating a dog run that stays clean and odor-free, or preparing a patio surround, the foundation determines whether your turf lasts and performs.
If you are new to artificial grass, you may not know that infill is not optional, that base rock must be compacted properly, or that a fast-draining turf still fails on a poorly prepared yard. This guide is for Provo homeowners who want to understand the work before they call, and for anyone vetting an installer and asking for a written specification. We cover the soil conditions you will encounter on the Wasatch Front, the materials that work in our climate, and the details that separate a careful installation from a shortcut.
Turf Infill Options: Silica, Coated Sand, Zeolite and Envirofill
Infill is the material spread on top of artificial grass after installation. It serves four jobs: it weighs the turf down so it stays in place, it props open the grass fibres so they stand up and look natural, it protects the backing from ultraviolet light, and it helps water drain through. There are four main families of infill, each with different properties and costs. Understanding them helps you choose the right one for your yard and your budget.
Silica sand is the baseline infill and the most common. It is angular, inexpensive, and does the job: it ballasts the turf, holds the fibres up, and drains well. Silica sand does not absorb odor or reduce heat, but it works reliably in most residential yards and is the standard choice for cost-conscious homeowners. Coated sand is silica sand with a polyurethane or acrylic coating. The coating rounds the grains, making them gentler on bare feet and pets, and it can be tinted to match or complement the turf colour. Coated sand costs more than silica but is popular for yards where children play barefoot or where comfort matters. Zeolite is a porous mineral that absorbs ammonia and other odors, making it the preferred infill for pet turf and dog run installation. It does not eliminate odor on its own, but it captures it in the material, and combined with regular cleaning, it keeps dog areas fresher longer. Antimicrobial and cooling coated infills are specialized products sold under brand names such as Envirofill. These coatings add properties like odor control, heat reduction, or antimicrobial action to the sand. They cost more than standard infill but are worth considering in high-use areas, yards with pets, or yards that get intense sun exposure. Crumb rubber (recycled tire crumb) is used in sports fields and artificial turf courts because it provides cushioning and heat absorption for athletic play, but it is not common in residential yards and is not recommended for pet areas or areas where children play close to the surface.
The infill you choose depends on your use, your climate, and your budget. Ask your installer which infill they recommend for your specific yard and why. The best choice is not always the most expensive one, but it should be chosen deliberately, not by default.
How Much Infill Artificial Grass Needs, and Why
Infill is specified by weight, measured in pounds per square foot (psf). This number tells you how much infill will be spread across your turf, and it matters more than you might think. Too little infill is one of the most common shortcuts taken by cheap installers. The turf fibres will not stand up properly, the backing will be exposed to sun and will degrade faster, and the grass will look matted and worn within a year or two. Too much infill can also be a problem, making the turf feel heavy and dense underfoot and making it harder to clean or maintain.
Most residential artificial grass is installed with between 1.5 and 2.5 pounds per square foot of infill, depending on the pile height and face weight of the turf. Higher-pile turf (taller grass) typically needs more infill to stand the fibres up; shorter, denser turf may need less. Pet areas and play areas often benefit from slightly higher infill to provide cushioning and to keep odors from building up in the base. Your installer should specify the exact amount of infill in writing before work begins, and should be able to explain why that amount is right for the product and the use. If an installer will not put the infill amount in writing, that is a red flag.
When you get a free estimate, ask how many pounds per square foot of infill will be used and request it in the final written specification. This one number tells you whether the installer is taking shortcuts or doing the job right.
What to Put Under Artificial Grass for Drainage
The layers under artificial grass are as important as the turf itself. Water has to go somewhere, and if it cannot drain away, it pools under the surface, smells, and eventually causes the turf to fail. Here is what goes under artificial grass, in order from the ground up. First, remove the existing lawn, old turf, and roots. On a yard with dead sod or old artificial grass, this means digging out the old material and clearing the soil. Next, excavate the area to the depth specified by your installer, typically three to four inches. Grade the excavated area so water runs away from the house and away from any pool or patio, rather than collecting in low spots. Lay a weed barrier (landscape fabric) if the yard has a history of weeds or if you are installing over poor soil. The weed barrier lets water through but blocks weed seeds and roots from coming up through the base. Then install a free-draining base layer of decomposed granite, crushed limestone, or crushed base rock, and compact it firmly in lifts (layers) using a plate compactor. This base layer is the skeleton of your installation. If it is not compacted, the turf will settle unevenly, creating dips and puddles. On top of the compacted base, you may add an optional draining underlay or pad, especially if you have pets, are installing over a patio or hard surface, or are building a play area. These pads add cushioning, help with drainage and odor control, and protect the turf backing. Finally, the turf itself is laid, seamed, and infilled.
On hard surfaces like concrete or a balcony, the process is different. Turf cannot be glued flat to concrete because water will pool underneath and the turf will fail. Instead, lay a draining underlay or pad on the concrete, and ensure that edge drainage (typically a perimeter channel or slope) carries water away from the edges. The turf is then laid over the pad and secured at the perimeter. This creates an air space and a drainage path, keeping water from trapping under the surface.
The key principle is this: water moves down through the turf and infill, then down through the base, and then away. If any layer blocks that movement, the installation will fail. That is why base prep is not a shortcut; it is the foundation of a long-lasting installation.
Base Prep on Provo Soil: Excavation, Base Rock and Compaction
Provo sits on varied soil. The east bench, from Indian Hills through Oak Hills to Edgemont, sits on rocky benchland cobble and compacted glacial till, often with caliche (hardpan) underneath. The west side toward Utah Lake has heavier clay and silty loam. Downtown and the older neighborhoods sit on a mix. What this means for artificial grass installation is that your soil may not drain well on its own. Clay and silt hold water; caliche is nearly impermeable. If water cannot drain away, it pools under your turf, and the installation fails. That is why excavation and base prep are not optional steps; they are the cure for Provo soil.
When your yard is excavated for artificial grass, the installer removes the top layer of soil and roots, then digs down to the depth needed for the base (usually three to four inches). The excavated area is graded so that water runs away from the house, away from any pool or patio, and toward the yard's natural drainage path. If your yard is flat or slopes toward the house, the installer will create a gentle slope during base prep. Once the area is graded, a free-draining base material (decomposed granite, crushed limestone, or crushed base rock) is spread and compacted in lifts using a plate compactor. Compaction is essential. An uncompacted base will settle over time, creating dips and low spots where water pools. Pooled water under turf smells, promotes odor in pet areas, and can damage the backing. On rocky or clay soil, compaction is the only way to create a stable, level surface.
If your yard has a real drainage problem, water flowing from a neighbor's yard, standing water after rain, or a high water table, base prep alone may not be enough. In those cases, the solution is to improve drainage first, either by regrading the yard, installing a perimeter drain, or other measures. If drainage cannot be fixed, the artificial grass installation will not perform well, and we will tell you that upfront rather than install turf on a losing proposition. A good installer will walk your yard, understand the water flow, and either prepare a base that solves it or recommend that you fix the drainage before the turf goes in.
Artificial Grass Drainage and Underlay: Perforated vs Fully Permeable
Artificial grass has to drain, and the rate of drainage is a measurable specification. Drainage is expressed in gallons per hour per square foot (GPH/sf), and it tells you how fast water moves through the turf backing. A typical residential turf drains at 15 to 25 GPH/sf or more, meaning water flows through quickly. The higher the number, the faster the drainage. But here is the catch: even a fast-draining turf will fail if the base underneath does not drain. Water has to move through the backing, through the infill, through the base, and away. If the base is compacted clay, caliche, or uncompacted soil, water cannot escape, and it pools under the surface no matter how permeable the turf is.
Turf backing comes in two main types: perforated backing has small holes punched through it, and fully permeable backing is a fabric that lets water through its entire surface. Fully permeable backing drains faster and is preferred for pet areas and yards with heavy rain or irrigation. Perforated backing is less expensive and drains adequately for most residential yards. The choice depends on your use and your budget, but both types require a well-prepared, draining base underneath. An optional draining underlay or pad can be installed on top of the base and under the turf. These pads are made of open-cell foam or other materials that allow water to flow through them while adding cushioning and odor control. They are especially useful for pet areas, play areas, and installations over hard surfaces like concrete or pavers. On a patio or balcony, an underlay is essential because concrete does not drain, and water will trap under the turf without it.
When you are evaluating an installation, ask for the drainage rate of the turf in writing, ask what the base material is and how it will be compacted, and ask whether an underlay will be used and why. These details tell you whether the installer understands that drainage is a system, not just a property of the turf itself.
Seams, Nails, Edging and Power Brooming
The details that separate a careful installation from a quick one show up at the seams, edges, and finish. These are the places where shortcuts are most visible and where problems start. A well-executed seam is barely noticeable; a poor one will be visible and may lift or fail over time. Seams are joined using seam tape and seam adhesive applied to the backing of both pieces of turf. The tape is sticky on one side and bonds the two pieces together. Before the adhesive sets, the installer checks that the grain of the turf runs in the same direction on both sides of the seam, so the pile looks uniform. If the grain does not match, the seam will be visible because the light will reflect differently off the two sides. Seams should be pressed firmly and allowed to cure before foot traffic or infill is applied.
Nails or staples hold the perimeter of the turf in place. They should be spaced correctly (typically 6 to 12 inches apart, depending on the product and the installer's recommendation) and driven into the base or into bender board, not into concrete or pavers. If nails are too far apart, the turf can shift or lift at the edges. The edges themselves need to be clean and secured. Bender board (a flexible steel edge) or a metal or plastic perimeter strip keeps the turf from rolling up and provides a finished look. On patios and pool surrounds, the turf is cut tight to the pavers or pool edge with a sharp utility knife, and the edge is sealed with adhesive or tape so it does not fray. On hard surfaces, edge drainage (a channel or slope) ensures that water does not collect at the perimeter. After the turf is laid and before infill is applied, the installer power brooms the surface. Power brooming stands the grass fibres up and spreads the infill evenly, so the turf looks full and the infill is distributed uniformly. Without power brooming, the turf will look thin and the infill may be clumped.
What does a poor seam or edge tell you? A visible seam line means the grain was not aligned or the adhesive did not set properly. A lifted edge or a seam that is peeling means the tape was not pressed firmly or the base was not stable. These are signs that the installer rushed or did not follow the process. When you inspect finished work, look at the seams, press on the edges, and check that the turf looks uniform and well-finished.
What a Written Turf Spec Should Include
Before any work begins, you should have a written specification from your installer that describes exactly what will be installed and how. This specification is your protection and your proof that you and the installer agree on the work. A good written spec includes all of the following: the name and product line of the artificial grass, the fibre type (polyethylene, polypropylene, or nylon), the face weight in ounces per square yard, the pile height in millimeters or inches, the backing type and its drainage rate in gallons per hour per square foot, the infill type and the amount in pounds per square foot, the base material and depth, the compaction method and standard, whether a weed barrier will be used, the seam method and tape type, the edging material and method, what cleanup and haul-off are included, and the workmanship warranty period. This specification should also include the square footage of the area being installed, the price or price range (measured on site), and the timeline.
A written spec does several things. It prevents misunderstandings. It gives you a way to verify that the work is being done as promised. It protects you if a problem comes up and you need to discuss it with the installer or pursue a remedy. And it tells you that the installer is professional and takes the work seriously. If an installer will not provide a written spec, or if they hand you a generic quote with no details, that is a sign they do not stand behind their work or do not understand it well enough to specify it.
You should also ask for a certificate of insurance showing general liability and workers' compensation coverage. Ask for references and photos of finished work in similar yards. Ask about the workmanship warranty and what it covers (installation defects, not wear or abuse). And ask what happens if there is a problem after the work is done. A local turf installation company should be reachable, should stand behind the work, and should be willing to answer questions before and after installation. For pricing and to arrange an on-site measurement and written estimate, call (385) 375-7227 or request a free estimate. We will walk your yard, identify the soil and drainage conditions, and give you a specification in writing so you know exactly what you are getting.